Tsumugi is one type of what's called kimono.

While kimonos can be made from silk, cotton, or hemp, tsumugi refers to kimono fabric where the threads are dyed before weaving. Most tsumugi are made from silk and woven in a plain weave, making them strong and durable textiles.

Tsumugi kimono are usually casual wear, not suited for formal occasions. Although many require delicate craftsmanship from the weavers. Therefore there are many high-quality, valuable tsumugi pieces.

Since there aren’t strict rules on how to wear tsumugi, it’s often chosen by people who enjoy expressing their own style and taste.

What is Tsumugi made from?

Tsumugi is mostly made from pure silk (called shōken in Japanese), but sometimes cotton or hemp is used too.

Nowadays, synthetic fibers and wool are often used because they’re easier to care for, but tsumugi has traditionally been mostly made from silk.

Silkworms make cocoons, and from those cocoons, silk threads are made. These threads are woven together in a simple crisscross pattern called plain weave to make tsumugi fabric.

All kimonos use silk threads like this, but tsumugi is different because the yarn is dyed before it’s woven. That’s why tsumugi fabric has repeating patterns all over it.

Different parts of Japan have their own special designs and ways of weaving tsumugi. The best quality silk, called habutae, has a nice shiny look. Japan used to export an amount of high-quality silk overseas.

What is Japan's Traditional Clothing "Kimono"?

Kimono is also known as gofuku

Unlike Western clothing, kimono is traditionally custom-made. There are no ready-to-wear ones. Gofuku refers to traditional Japanese fabric, including kimono materials. They are sold as rolls of fabric called tanmono at specialty kimono shops so-called gofukuya.

When you buy a kimono, the shop staff or a professional kimono tailor (wasai-shi) will take your measurements, and the fabric is then sewn to fit your body. This process is called shitate (tailoring), and the finished kimono is delivered to you later.

Kimono are carefully hand-sewn by tailors who understand both the fabric’s characteristics and the customer’s body shape. Each piece of the kimono is cut from the fabric in rectangular shapes. No buttons, zippers, pleats, or elastic materials involved.

Why Kimono Are Hand-Sewn

It's all about maintenance

Most kimono are made from pure silk, which cannot be washed frequently. Instead, people wear undergarments and attach a small collar cover called han-eri to protect the kimono. These inner layers are washed regularly, but the kimono itself is cleaned less often.

When kimono get dirty, people usually send it to a specialist get cleaned. One traditional cleaning method is called araihari. This involves carefully unpicking all the seams, washing the fabric as flat rectangular pieces, and then sewing it back together. This method helps prevent shrinkage or twisting of the fabric.

During this process, the kimono can also be reinforced, have panels switched to hide stains, or even be resized to match body changes.

Since kimono are taken apart and sewn again, they’re still hand-stitched today. Sewing by machine would leave unnecessary holes and could damage the delicate silk fabric.

Thanks to modernized cleaning techniques, it’s becoming more common to clean kimono without taking them apart.

Would Kimono be worn for 100 Years?

Kimono are tailored to fit the wearer's body and are worn by adjusting with ties and an obi belt. Thanks to a traditional cleaning method called araihari —where the kimono is taken apart, cleaned, and sewn back together— kimono can be passed down from mother to daughter, and to moreover generations.

To prevent damage during maintenance, kimono are traditionally hand-sewn by wasai-shi (kimono tailors), so there are no visible seams on the outside. These skilled artisans hold a national certification called Wasaiginōshi, and they tailor kimono not only to fit well and move comfortably but also to make the patterns align beautifully when worn.

The comfort and elegance of a kimono largely depend on the quality of its tailoring. A carefully made kimono which properly maintained over time, can truly last for 100 years. It's not uncommon for high-quality kimono to be lovingly passed down from grandmother to granddaughter.

Kimono Styles Change with the Seasons

Kimono are tailored differently depending on the season. Most kimono are made with two layers—a main fabric and a lining—called awase, which are ideal for cooler months.

In warmer seasons, lighter single-layer kimono called hitoe are worn. During midsummer, people wear kimono made of sheer fabrics like ro or sha, which allow for better airflow and a more refreshing look.

Some kimono are also decorated with seasonal motifs like flowers, plants, or insects. These designs are meant to reflect the time of year, and there's even an elegant tradition in Japan of wearing seasonal motifs slightly before their peak. For example, wearing cherry blossom prints under fully blooming cherry trees is often considered a bit unsophisticated—it's more stylish to hint at the coming season rather than match it exactly.

Because awase kimono use two different fabrics, the outer and lining layers are carefully adjusted for differences in stretch and texture. The tailoring is fine-tuned so the garment wraps perfectly around the body.

Kimonos passed down through generations from grandparents

Kimonos that have already been tailored and are in the "form of a kimono" were made to fit the specific measurements of the original owner—such as shoulder width, arm length, waist and garment length. Because body types vary from person to person, there are no standard sizes like S, M, or L available. (However, some modern yukata —a casual summer kimono— are produced in standard sizes.)

It's also not uncommon for people to inherit kimonos without knowing the body measurements of the deceased who wore them. As a result, more and more people are finding it difficult to manage these durable but complex garments.

Ideally, a kimono that fits perfectly is more comfortable to wear and preferable. Even so, our studio also rents out pre-tailored kimonos. Depending on how it's styled or worn, slight size differences can be accommodated. You might say it's a stroke of luck to find a pre-tailored kimono that fits you just right.

Also great for trying out before tailoring your own kimono

At our studio, professional kimono dressers —trusted by Japanese clients— will carefully style you to ensure the kimono suits you beautifully. Most of the tsumugi (a type of woven silk kimono) we use were tailored between the late 1970sー1990s. Many are high-quality pieces with a luxurious sheen and substantial weight, and we take great care to ensure you feel comfortable and confident wearing them with a properly tied obi (kimono sash).

Before booking, please check the sizing information, and after booking, we kindly ask for your cooperation during the follow-up consultation.

If you've ever thought about owning your own kimono but felt unsure or worried about being pressured for purchasing due to a lack of knowledge, you're not alone. I've also had the unpleasant experience of being pushed into purchases I didn't really want. That's why I'm happy to offer advice if you're considering buying your own kimono. Let's enjoy the world of kimono together as fellow enthusiasts! (Our support with your purchase comes at no cost to you.)